On August 18th and 19th Josh and Mark joined Tim Connelly and I with an American Alpine Institute Alps Trilogy Trip. Mark and Josh had already completed training climbs and Mont Blanc with Tim by the time I caught up with the team in Zermatt. Our objective was the Hornli Ridge on the Matterhorn, the most iconic peak in the Alps.
On the trail to the Hornli Hut
From Zermatt we took the never ending gondola to the Schwarzsee Hotel, where we stashed our clean clothes for our return there the following night.
The Matterhorn from the Schwarzsee. The Hornli ridge is on the right hand skyline.
After 2.5 hours walk we arrived at the Hornli Hut, where we proceeded to have some Rosti (fried hashbrowns with eggs) and soak up the afternoon sun. Then we took a reconnaissance foray up the first thirty minutes of the route, the part that we'd be doing in the dark the following day.
Josh and I on the Matterhorn summit in bluebird skies.
The next morning came soon and at 4:20 am, after the Zermatt Guides, we set off in the dark. I climbed with Josh and Tim with Mark. Josh and I arrived at the Solvay Hut, an emergency refuge slightly more than halfway up the route, in two hours. We carried on to the summit in exactly four hours total and laid in the sun and still air for one hour after which Mark, Josh's dad, arrived with Tim. It was a sweet father/son moment and we were all very happy to enjoy such awesome conditions on the route.
The Breighthorn from the Hornli Hut
We descended in good time and rejoined each others company back at the Hornli Hut. After some water and beer we set off for the 1.5 hour walk back to the Schwarzsee Hotel where fancy dinner, showers, comfortable beds, and am amazing sunset view of the Matterhorn awaited us.
Matterhorn Summit
The Hornli Ridge up the Matterhorn is the easiest route, but is by no means for beginners. It is 1200 meters of climbing and requires good footwork. For long stretches of time our rope team was secured to the mountain by little more than our balance and the bootsoles. It is an intimidating peak and not one to be taken lightly.
The upper section of the Hornli
Back at the Hornli with the succesfully completed peak looming above us.